Front Crotch Fullness

Good day to you and thankyou for coming over to read about adjusting a front pant for fullness in the crotch area. 

Today we will be featuring our always gorgeous Luana F from the US who recently participated in the new London Ponte Pants road tester group.

When I conduct my pattern tests I try to work with as many diverse people as I can find. I have been fitting pants to all of my students for well over 30 plus years now and I really love seeing the final results – no fullness in the front crotch (aka too much ball room), pants that dont drag down at the CB, pants that dont have to compete with a “hungry bum” ( thanks to Sarah G from the UK for this term – never heard of the term hungry bum)

The below fitting and adjustment techniques are the most common and the most effective. Two of the below step methods originate on much earlier posts which I will detail here.

How to Shorten your Front Rise. 

How to Lengthen Your Back Rise   

Luana’s Pant Fitting Journey

When fitting Luana’s London Ponte Pants, we had to make a total of 3 alterations for her front crotch curve area as the pattern was too long for her pelvis and her body was recessed in the front mound area.

Step 1. Front Crotch Depth.

In the above photos you will see we have folded out the extra length with the greatest amount folded at the CF seamline.

This adjustment is always done on the hipline and goes right across to the side seam. It ends at zero on the side seam across to greatest amount at the C/F.

The amount folded on the toile is then folded out of the pattern itself along the hipline. 

Step 2. Fullness at Crotch Curve.

The above has corrected the extra crotch depth so now we have to take care of the extra fabric going around the thigh into the inner leg seam at the fork junction. 
The crotch curve is shaved off 1 cms along with the inner leg. I find this to be about the maximum amount that can be shaved off in this area. You have to be careful that you dont drap the inner leg/fork seam by taking too much.

Step 3. Flattening of the Crotch Curve

While the above crotch alteration scooped out the crotch curve this last alteration will flatten off the curve. 

I must note though that this is not a standard/common alteration. I have only had to do this type of alteration a few times in my years of pant fitting classes/workshops and it is usually only needed when the wearer has a recessed front mound.  

This alteration is done just above the crotchline – usually about 2.5 cms above – and the fold is no more than 2 cms (3/4″) total (1 cms  (3/8″) folded)

The above 3 fitting steps have ensured that our Luana’s pant fitting process and final garment is the best fit possible.

Once you have altered the fit of your garment – where needed – and altered all relevant pattern pieces you can simply make many of the same.

And the London Pants are an ideal all year-round – wardrobe staple.

I hope that you add this to your knowledge bank of pattern adjustments know-how. 

Love to you all.

Ann at Designer Stitch.