A Sunday greetings my lovely friends and I hope that you are all well and happy.
Today is the 2nd blog post to celebrate the release of the gorgeous Dylan Pants and today I would like to talk with you about folds that can sometimes appear under your bum in the approximate region of high back thigh.
Like every pattern that you make it will be necessary to tweak the fit of your garment to get absolute perfection and the Dylan Pant pattern is just the ticket for this – the vertical leg panels give you a great opportunity to tweak and fit the legs to your body.
Just in case you missed out on yesterdays post – How to Alter Crotch Length for Buttock Division – be sure to check it out. I discuss how to alter your Dylan Pants pattern when your pants toile – back crotch – is dividing your buttocks.
Please also check out my other 2 very detailed posts on Fitting Pants that can be found here.
1. How to Lengthen Your Back Rise
2. How to Shorten Your Front Rise
So lets start !!!
The image above is the back view of my gorgeous roadie – Deborah LF. You can see the extra folds in her back pant leg – high up in her thigh region
We have to reduce the length of the pant leg in the middle of the back leg but not on the side seam nor the inner leg seam.
Here you can see that Deborah has pinned out a wedge/horizontal dart that has its greatest fullness at the centre of the back leg – and back to nothing at the side seam and inner leg.
And above is a closeup of the pinned horizon fold/wedge on another one of my roadies toiles – Valentina V.xx
You can see the contrast between the loose folds of fabric on the left leg as against the pinned wedge on her right leg.
And this is how you alter your back legs to get rid of that fullness. xx
HOW TO ALTER YOUR PATTERN FOR BACK LEG HIGH THIGH FOLDS
Step 1. Ensure your pattern pieces are separate and are level at the knee line. Draw a horizon line across your upper thigh region on the pattern pieces approx 7cms (2 3/4″) down from the fork of the back pant – or the distance you have measured on your pants toile.
Step 2. Draw the total amount folded/pinned out of your pant leg toile down from your horizontal line. Cut across the upper line drawn in Step 1.
Step 3. Overlap and pivot each upper section of the pant leg to foldout indicated fullness. The foldout of the excess will be greatest at the middle pattern seam lines and back to nothing at the side seam and inner leg seams. Stick to hold in place.
Step 4. Place some scrap paper and stick it underneath the edges of your pattern pieces and hand draw/smooth out any “jogs” or wonkiness at the edges of the pattern.
Step 5. Continue the grain line from the centre of the legs up. By pivoting the upper section of the pattern will have shifted the upper section of the grain line to an angle.
And that is it !!…a very easy alteration to get rid of a very obvious, badly needed fitting adjustment.
And dont forget to check out these other blog posts.
1. How to Alter Crotch Length for Buttock Division
2. How to Lengthen Your Back Rise
3. How to Shorten Your Front Rise
And the finer details of the Dylan Pants:
On Sale for a limited time only – $8.95 (US)
multi-sized pattern :
(AU/UK) 6 – 30
(US) 2 – 26
(EU) 34 – 58
The Dylan Slim or Tapered pants are a jeans silhouette that you will love. Slim fit through the body they are easily pulled onto the body and have all day stretch for ultimate comfort.
Very Confident Advanced Beginner/Intermediate Sewing Level.
Cheerio and love to you all xx
Ann at Designer Stitch xx
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