Greetings again my lovelies and thank you for joining me here for Day 4 in the series of Sedona Shirt Dress blog posts.
I hope that you enjoyed reading the last 3 days of blog posts and if you have missed them here are your links. They make great reading.
Day 1 – Sedona Shirt Dress Inspiration and Influences Post.
Day 2 – Sedona Shirt Dress Tester Roundup Part 1
Day 3 – Sedona Shirt Dress Tester Roundup Part 2
Today I will share with you all the anatomy of the concealed button wrap – and how it is folded to achieve its button concealment – as featured in the Sedona Shirt Dress PDF sewing pattern.
On a standard shirt the button wrap is generally a separate pattern piece that is stitched to the front edge, folded and then top stitched. The button and buttonholes on this separate button stand are visible.
A concealed button wrap starts off as a standard button wrap but has an extra pleat – accordion style – added to its width to create a fold that covers the buttons themselves.
Hence the name concealed button wrap.
Above is a pic of the right front pattern of the Sedona Shirt Dress PDF sewing pattern and I have highlighted in a contrast colour the fold lines as I have detailed them on the actual pattern. You will see there are 4 separate sections that will fold on themselves to create the concealed right front wrap and I have numbered them accordingly to help you fold your wrap properly.
As part of the Sedona Shirt Dress PDF sewing pattern I have provided a how-to-sheet on page 14 of the sewing instructions that gives you the opportunity to print off scaled front pattern pieces to familiarize yourself with the concealed wrap folding method before you start on your cut fabric pieces.
(I am demonstrating on my paper pattern as you will be able to see the fold lines clearly in contrast to a fabric.)
Step 1. Fold section 1 to the wrong side of the right front so both wrong sides touch each other. Pin to hold in place and press.
Section 1 has been folded to the wrong side of the right front.
Step 2. Fold section 2 under to the wrong side of the right front. Pin to hold in place and press.
Section 2 has been folded to the wrong side of the right front. Section 1 has been folded (Step 1) and is now tucked in under section 2.
Step 3. Fold along the left edge of section 4, pin and press to create a sharp crease.
On the underside of the right front you will see sections 4 and 3 have been folded to the wrong side of the right front. Section 2 and 1 are folded under section 3 in the previous steps.
Step 4. Bring this folded edge of 4 across to outer edge of section 3, pin and press in place.
You can see in the above pic a fold or pleat has been made. This fold hides the button and buttonholes.
Step 5. Top stitch 3cms (1 1/4′) from the folded front outer edge making sure all layers are caught and held in the stitch line. This stitch line keeps all layers in place.
So what has happened ? Essentially the folded sections 4 and 3 have created an pleat that covers and sits on top of section 2/1 – which is the basis of your button stand where your buttons and button holes are placed.
What came first – The Chicken or the Egg ?..lol
It is general practice to make your button and buttonholes now before you start sewing the rest of the garment as it is sometimes difficult to get into the upper folded area when the collar is in place. But this is a case of what came first – the chicken or the egg ..lol…
Your first button should always be at your place of maximum strain. Which in the case of the Sedona Shirt Dress it is inline with your bust apex or nipple – and this can only be determined when you try on your garment – as you can then ascertain where you will have to place your buttons and buttonholes.
Working the Left Front of the Sedona Shirt Dress.
The left front has part of the folded section eliminated – as detailed in the sewing instructions of the Sedona Shirt Dress PDF sewing pattern – a concealed button wrap is only placed on the right side of the garment. You can see in the above picture the concealed is on the right front and a standard button wrap is on the left front.
Thank you my friends and I am sure that you will love making the Sedona Shirt Dress PDF sewing pattern. My only advice – don’t over think it – just follow the instructions as I have detailed and you will end up with the most gorgeous Sedona addition to your wardrobe.
And tomorrow keep your eyes out for the next blog post –
How to Create a Separate Button Stand on the Sedona Shirt Dress
Ann at Designer Stitch.
Oh – ps !!!…. The finer details : On Sale for a limited time only – $8.75 (US)
multi-sized pattern – including Cup Size B thru DD (E) :
(AU/UK) 6 – 26
(US) 2 – 22
(EU) 34 – 54
Intermediate Sewing Level.