Greetings my lovelies – this is a short and sweet post on how to match your seam lines or seam junctions which is the basis of ALL SEWING !!!
I posted this a few weeks back into my Facebook group – I call it ” Teachers Hat ” – and was very surprised that this wasn’t a standard step for quite a few sew’ists. I am sure you heard the thud of me falling off my sewing chair.
Aligning your stitch lines/seam junctions is the foundation of sewing when working with your cut pattern pieces – you dont match the cut edges/ends of pattern pieces – you must ALWAYS match the junction of the stitch lines. So let me explain. xx
The above image is the pattern pieces of the back of the Carmen Skirt. As it is an asymmetrical garment the pattern pieces are sloped at the bottom.
As you can see I have aligned the CB vertical seam and the lower point of each skirt piece is a differing length.
When the pattern pieces are flipped so you have right sides of the fabric together you will see that the cut edge of one of the pieces is still longer than the other.
But when you line up the pieces at the stitch line/seam allowance junction they then match up and are the same length. This is the junction you are looking for and is the starting (or ending) point of your straight stitch. (If you were to match the cut edges to top of the pattern pieces would be differing lengths.)
Seam Junctions – Olivia Bralette
The Olivia Bralette has a lovely “V” CF shape and relies on perfect seam junctions and is quite easy to do if you accurately measure/mark your seam allowance junctions.
Working with your first cup piece you match up your cup seam allowance of 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance with the same seam junction allowance – 6mm (1/4″) – amount on the front body. At this point I would just run approx 10 basting stitches here to hold.
Align the edge of the second cup piece against the first cup piece – again at the 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance junction – and again baste in place. You are forming a perfect “V” break point here by matching the two edges perfectly.
And then you would complete and finish both cup seams independently.
And voila – you have a perfect “break” point – matched edges – on the cups of the Olivia Bralette – at the exact CF point. Well done !!! xx
All the best my friends.
Ann at Designer Stitch xx
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